Penguin's Thai Trip
Below, you can read about my trip to Thailand’s Bangkok and Phuket in April 2005. At the end of the journal is the link to view my photos from said trip. You may contact me at penguinscott@aol.com
My Trip to Thailand April 1-14 by Scott G. Gibson
As I walked into the ballroom the first thing I noticed was the plinky muzak playing to the other hotel guests. One song would be a country tune with slide guitar, the next 2 would be the cheesiest ‘70s ballads, made even more so by the piano plinking in where the words should be.
When I learned my Bangkok hotel, the Mandarin, included breakfast with my stay, I pictured a simple affair, perhaps like some of my hotel stays in Europe or America: some breads, cereals, maybe some eggs; and fruit for sure. And it was fair to think so since I was only paying about $23 a night for the room.
But this affair was more grand. Fried rice with pork, Thai noodles, scrambled eggs, hot dogs in an odd catsup sauce, bacon, fruit, bread, cereal as suspected, french toast, pancakes and a couple of local dishes. They were all stretched out down the center of the room. Tables of all sizes surrounded the feast, about half of them occupied and half of those only half so!
After I ate and suffered through the music I returned to my room to form an action plan. I’d arrived in Thailand about midnight and probably fell asleep near 0200. So I’d not spent any time doing so before now. With only 2 whole days allocated to this stay, I thought I’d spend most of day one seeing the historical sights. Those being some distance and on the river, I thought I’d walked down one of the shopping roads near by, to the river, where I could take a boat to the Grand Palace area of the city. This would be a 2 mile or so walk.
But obviously, my body wasn’t quite ready. It was 0800 and I’d been up just over 2 hours, but before going out I had to take a nap! Guess I wasn’t as ready to get up as I had thought.
When I got outside I didn’t think the heat was all that bad. It took a few blocks of walking before I realized the humidity was more than I first realized. At least the sun hid behind the layer of haze and clouds.
Most of the shops seemed closed as I headed for the river. I wans’t sure if it was the fact that it was a Sunday or maybe they didn’t open until a little later in the day. There were people out, but not many.
The whole way tuk tuk drivers would constantly stop me to ask if I wanted a ride. Like it was wrong to be walking. And maybe in this heat it was. I soon learned my new catch phrase in Thailand was to be “No tuk tuk!” It would be accompanied by a hand gesture that looked like a wave-off, just in case they needed a visual as well.
I got to the river, a dirty looking body of water in which I’d never submerge in, full of long boats and cruise boats. I started talking to an attractive English couple. Soon an Australian couple joined us and we decided to go in on hiring a long boat to take us up river as opposed to the public transport boats, which would take much longer (even though I was in no hurry).
The long boat was awesome, powered by a huge, loud engine on a ‘pole’ that looked like it had been pulled from a semi truck.
The long boat was fast and in no time we were climbing out of it near the Grand Palace. Our little group split up. I was a little disappointed since I was alone. I thought it would be nice to hang out with them for a while. But we all had different agendas.
When I got to the palace, the sun started to come out a little and I felt the full force of Thailand’s hot season. I started to think of “it’s so hot..” jokes, like my nuts were roasting, that my diamond ear ring was reverting back to char-coal, that the reason Thais ate such hot food was that it was still cooler than the climate. I think I saw Satan fanning himself in a pub. When a hotel offers a sauna, it’s just a bench outside. It’s so hot I saw a squirrel in the park fanning his nuts.
I found shade to walk in or stand in when I stopped to look at things. Several times I had to stop to sit in the shade for a bit. I spent more time sitting here than any other place I’ve visited. When I finally got to the coin and artifacts museum, a place I would not normally care to visit but did now since it was indoors, I think it was just in time. When I got inside and felt the cool air, I realized my heart rate was elevated, I was short on breath and sweating profusely. I drank some water and stopped at each air vent to allow the air to blow up my shirt and I’d stoop down so the crotch-level vent could air my face out. I took my time and was reluctant to leave.
Despite the heat I was quite impressed with the Thai temple architecture and the amount of detail and work put into them. The exteriors were covered with tile and mirrors. The statues, some fearsome, others quaint – being half chicken and half human- were grand. I would say that of all the holy places I’ve ever visited, I was most impressed with this one.
One highlight of my first day in Bangkok was finding a nice little pub across from Wat Po and sitting just off the side walk, under a fan, and drinking a couple of beers. Ahh, the good life!
Then into Wat Po I did go, in search of a foot massage, which by this point was badly needed. The cost was 300 Baht for an hour, or about $8. What a treat! I sat next to a nice young German dude who’d never had a foot massage. He was only there waiting for his girl who was getting a massage and decided to give the foot massage a try. We spoke some, about our home countries, our stay in Bangkok and the heat.
Shortly after my treat it began to rain so I found a shelter and waited it out for almost 30 minutes. I hadn’t eaten since breakfast, it was now nearly 1800. I decided to head for T. Restaurant, a place my friend, Denny, had recommended. Plus he knew a girl who worked there. So I found a tuk tuk driver and negotiated a price I was happy with and was off on my next adventure and my first ride in a tuk tuk (a 3-wheeled motor cart, loud, open aired, but quick).
Turns out I was a better navigator than the driver was. We hit a lot of traffic crossing town and when we finally stopped he said I was there. But when I asked where the place was, showing him the card Denny gave me, he pointed to the ground at his feet. Not good enough, I told him. After another look at the card we turned around and went to the opposite end of the long street. He said that was the place, but after consulting the map it couldn’t have been. Back up that street we went, a third time, past where we’d first stopped, and then left at the light. He pointed just ahead of us to where he said the place was but I looked at the card again and told him it wasn’t possible. We should have gone right, not left. And I was too tired to walk.
So another 15 minutes later he stops, I payed him and found my way through the clean glass doors of a nice, modern Chinese seafood restaurant.
I met Patti, who helped me order a large beer and pick a few selections from the menu. Patti, or Paraporn, was a flight attendant based in Bangkok before they closed down the base shortly after 9-11. Her father owned the place and ran the older, original restaurant. She ran this new one and missed her old job, saying this bored her, having to be here 7 days a week.
Patti sat and spoke for a while, having to take a few phone calls and see to other guests from time to time. She showed me a few places to check out for my next day, showed me a night market to hit, and was a gracious host.At one point at dinner I was talking to Patti and asking her about some of the details in her restaurant. I turned to glance out the window and there in the street, looking right at me, was an elephant! I couldn’t believe it. She told me they come out at night to give tourists rides. Then a woman come to the window holding a bag of fruit I didn’t quite recognize and motioned to me that she wanted to sell it to me. I shook my head and asked Patti what it was that she was selling. Turns out it was food for people to feed the elephants.
The food was good and I would recommend the place, but none of what I had was Thai food. Patti gave me a 10% discount making my meal come to about $13. The same meal in the US would easily have been $30. Patti helped me get a cab, telling the driver I wanted to go to the night market in Thai, but as we drove away, it turns out the driver spoke English fairly well.
I thought it interesting that when people meet me, they assume I speak English as opposed to maybe Russian or German. Some times when I’m accosted in the street I ignore them as if I don’t understand the English they are speaking to me. I just say nothing, looking off to another direction. I did this a lot at the night market.
The night market was enjoyable, however. I walked up and down the narrow halls lined with small stalls. Some shops had rented 2 or 3 and were large and nice, others were merely 3 walls and the merchandise they were selling. I enjoyed that the vendors weren’t nearly as pushy as the ones in china or Korea, but at the same time, these vendors didn’t barter as much. Many let me walk away without them pursuing me for a lower price and a sale. A pair of pants offered at 200B only went as low as 150B. (And it 38 Baht to the dollar, that was still cheap!)I only bought a pair of pants and 3 Thai silk shirts. They cost about $10 each.
At this point I was purely exhausted, it was now almost 2200. I bought some beer, a cake and a snack to take back to my room. I tried to find a metered cab to take me back. I’d had enough of tuk tuks, with their noise and slightly higher prices, which have to be bartered for. My next adventure ensued.
First I had to pass a few tuk tuks. No, no, no, I told them. The first cab spoke no English and to show him on my map where I wanted to go was futile, as he would not look at it. It was like he couldn’t read or something. I gave up on him and moved to the next cab.
This one said he would take me the 2 miles to my hotel for 100B. But my ride there from T. Restaurant was only 50B and that was further. I tried to talk him down but was not successful. So who’s next?
Well, the next guy said the same thing. The one after that refused to take me, not far enough or great enough of a fare. Finally, I found a cabbie that knew where the hotel was and would use the meter.
I got to my room, which was nice and cool. The rains had helped cool things down but I was still doing a lot of sweating. I listened to one of the CDs I’d bought at the night market, having trouble staying up for half of it, and slept well that night.
I awoke the next day to the sound of thunder. A few moments later I heard another faint rumble. Thunder here is different from most I’ve ever heard. It was a faint little rumble, almost like it didn’t really want to disturb anyone, but had a job to do nonetheless. A look out the widow showed a torrential downpour. But at least it cooled things down.
After another plinky music-filled breakfast I set out for a day of exploring the shopping areas (the rain didn’t last too long). It was cool and breezy, at first. I went down Silom Rd. as I had the day before, but this time it was bustling, as I’d expected it to be the previous day.
It wasn’t long before I boarded the sky train and was off to Siam. Siam was an impressive collection of shops, stores and restaurants, including the Hard Rock Bangkok. I didn’t find anything of interest and after a while I was on the move again for Sukhumvit Rd. where I did more shopping and sight seeing.
By now my feet were beginning to kill me once more. My pace slowed and my stomach rumbled for authentic Thai food. After a while I wandered into the Ambassador Hotel and got a reference for a good Thai place. Armed with directions and part of the name spoken in a thick accent, I found my way to Cabbages and Condoms.
Yes, I did hesitate for a moment at the name. But I eventually found a classy place, with a lush, green beer garden, nicely appointed dinning room, and well groomed men and women to wait on me. And sure enough, as indicated in its name, photos, posters, pictures and samples of condoms hung on the walls. They even give condoms instead of mints at the end of the meal.
The food was fantastic and service impeccable. The soup was exquisite (tom yun kung), with shrimp and all sorts of mushrooms, some gown on the premises. And a portion of the revenue goes for social causes, part of which is sex education.
I splurged on dessert of fried bananas with honey. I was completely stuffed. Time for a cab back, then a nap. I was still up for seeing Silom at night, with its famous sex clubs. And what a show that was! Not only were they all naked and erect, but after a Thai dance demo, live sex on stage. Yowza, I’m in Bangkok now!
The girls continued to come over to try to entice me to anti up 700B to take one back to my hotel. But there was no way I’d ever do that! I politely refused, smiled, and eventually had enough sleaze and made my way back to bed.
I wasn’t in such a good mood when I got to Phuket. Well, it wasn’t so much that , I guess, but I started to think, maybe I’ll go ahead and leave on the 10th instead of the 13th as originally planned.
My planning got me to the airport a bit too early. The driver dropped me off and when I entered the antiquated terminal, I felt lost. There were no clear signs indicating what I needed to do. I put all 3 bags I had with me on an x-ray – turns out it was only for bags that would be checked. Then I found a Thai Airlines desk and was informed that I was in the international terminal when I needed to be in domestic. I spent the next 2 hours continually cussing at my limo driver. I told him Thai Air, Phuket.
A bus took me to the correct terminal. Then I was told my flight was sold out, but come back at 1340. That was over an hour away. I wondered why the lady I spoke to on the phone hadn’t mentioned the status of this flight to me. I could have come to the airport later, or earlier, according to the load status of other flights.
So with my extra time I listed for my flight back to Bangkok, but only after standing in the wrong line for 30 minutes. Then I found a quiet lounge and read a magazine while gazing out at the runways.
Eventually, I was seated in 24B, the last row of first class on a 2-class A300-600. I enjoyed experiencing the Thai ‘Royal Orchid’ service, pre-departure offered in real glass, not plastic, bows and courteous tones of voice from flawless, young Thai women in neat purple uniforms.
The service was fast, the flight was just over an hour. Yet we got a little snack, some sort of pastry with curried chicken, hot from the oven. Oh, and in the lavatory, real wash cloths to dry with instead of paper towels.
Again, I got a little upset when the airport taxis wanted to gouge me on a ride to my hotel on Surin Beach. After a very difficult call to my hotel, no one spoke English very well, I was told a van would get me in 30 minutes.
The hotel was nice, I was given a fruit drink while I checked in. The room was real nice, very Italian in decor, down to the photo over the bed from Napoli. It didn’t dawn on me before that this might be the case in a hotel named Capri Beach Resort.
I requested a room with an ocean view. I’d have that were it not for the trees. I thought about a room on the 3rd floor, mine was on the 1st (second in America) but the room was smaller there and I realized that being that high would mean a hotter room, since heat rises.
I got settled in and walked the short way to the beach, which lied just beyond a park area in front of the hotel. I got there just in time for sunset, but it disappeared behind the clouds that lie on the horizon and I never got to see it touch the Earth.
It wasn’t until my next day, sitting under 2 umbrellas, under a bunch of trees, in the shade, breeze blowing, waves crashing, after an hour-long Thai massage ($8) that I started feeling much better about being here. I decided I’d stay the extra 2 days.
I love the beach here, it’s peaceful and quiet, like I’d hoped it would be. There are all the comforts – a cabana boy brushes off the lounge and brings drinks. The restaurant is just a few yards away. There are a lot of Germans, which means, with few exceptions of god-like bodies, over-weight old men in speedos, and topless women, most of which were actually worth a stare. But the beach was mostly deserted, people still concerned about the state of things after the tsunami. But there was nothing to worry about here!
My hotel has wonderful pizza and Thai food, is close to some shops, where I can get cheap beer, liquor and snacks, and only has 18 rooms. I’m not sure how they go about calling it a beach resort. There is no pool or gym, only a bar and restaurant. There’s also an internet place so I wrote the world back home of my trip so far.
Life is good on the beach in Phuket!Zonya says I’ve become a local and she’s nearly right. She’s a friend of mine who also works at United who came to visit me in Phuket before going on to visit family in the Philippines.
After 5 days of doing the same thing, sitting in the same chair on the same beach at the same restaurant I should get to know things. At least I’m mixing it up with what I eat. But I’m getting familiar with the habits of some of the other beach regulars.
The beach gods, as I call them, a very fit and well built good looking couple who ride on their motor bike, eat (she gets something different each day but always drinks water – he always eats a pancake with honey but drinks something different) and then hit the lounges for sun. He always grabs a boogie board and plays in the surf. There’s the single man in his 50’s who sits near me, reads, spends some time in the water and then leaves just after noon.
I met a guy at my hotel, Lattuce, named after a winning horse. He’s from England, living in Australia with his wife and kids, and spends a lot of time traveling. He’s in Singapore and the Philippines a lot working with a company trying to save the Earth’s O-zone. He sits at the hotel bar each evening drinking scotch and smoking. But he’s nice.
One night an attractive well built American looking guy walked into the restaurant area with an attractive blond girl who didn’t look so American. I was eating and said hello as they neared my table. She asked if I was the owner. “No, just a guest,” I told her. Before long the guy walked out and she sat down and ordered something from the menu. I noticed she had a hotel key. I started to talk to her. Now finished with my meal, she asked me to join her. Her name was Fen and she was from the Netherlands. She’d been in Thailand for a while and mentioned that her boyfriend would meet her here in Phuket on May 5. She’d met Bo, the cute guy, a few weeks ago in Chaing Mai and they decided to come here together and share some expenses. But she made clear to me that she was not willing to share rooms to Bo’s dismay. He and another girl, Carley, were staying at the kick boxing place about 30 minutes away.
Bo had left to get her belongings and bring them back. She knew he was interested in her but she had made it clear her boyfriend was coming soon and she wasn’t interested in fooling around. I think she was half telling me this story to make it clear with me as well. I said it was nice of him to spend an hour and a half getting her belongings for her. Too nice, she said. “People in Amsterdam wouldn’t do that, “ she said.
When Bo showed up I felt like I already knew him. He lives in California, has a pilot’s license and learned to kick box here and has come back to hang out with some old friends and do some boxing with them.
I couldn’t help but feel Bo was jealous of me, sort of like I was moving in on his girl as it were. He goes off to be the hero, comes back and finds me having dinner with her. His glares were obvious but he hid them as best he could. Still, he was quite nice and soon warmed up to me. He stayed a while chatting with us, after he left we stayed another hour or so.
The next day, while getting my daily massage on the beach, my good friend, Zonya showed up. I was so happy to see her. Mostly because I’d told so many people she may come for a few days. I wanted to be able to say that she had.
Saturday night we got tickets to the Fantasea Show in Kamala Beach, the next beach south from us. With live elephants, ox, goat and chickens, all sorts of Thai dancing and some magic, it was quite a spectacle!
I had so much fun with Zonya. She enjoyed the staff at the hotel and my relationship with them. The girls there are so precious and were quite flirtatious with me and I just ate it up. I’m also guilty of goading them on!
Friday night (and actually I was waiting around in the hops Fen would return froman evening in Patong) I was hanging out in the hotel bar. They let me bring down CDs to listen to and I also brought some photos to share so we could get to know one another better. We all spoke while they worked and joked and I watched and critiqued a pizza being made. Look told me I’d have to make my pizza the next day!
Noticing how I take the orchids from my drinks up to my room, the girl who cleans it gave me a vase with orchids to take to my room. One day I asked for a second glass of orange juice at breakfast and now they give me a large glass shaped like a lady without asking. It’s the little touches that really get me.
Friday, I had gone to Patong and realized then that I was staying in the best hotel at the best beach for me. In Patong, the hotels aren’t on the beach, but several blocks away. It’s got tons of shops with aggressive hawkers, tons of bars and loud music, but no one was in them and they all wanted me! The beach wasn’t as nice, it’s more populated, more loud, people playing games and shouting, boats and yachts in the water off shore.
Yes, I’m very fortunate that I picked such a wonderful beach and a great hotel to stay in . If I come back, I’ll definitely stay here again.
Driving to Patong was an experience. I finally got to see the destruction of the tsunami. Vast areas of beach property on both sides of the road were affected. Except for some trees, it was all vacant, and even they had damage. Foundations were all that were left at a few places. Once I even saw that a swimming pool was all that was left of a hotel. Parts of the road had even washed away and it reminded me of how tornados often strip off the top surface of roads. In Patong, there were still quite a few places boarded up, including the McDonalds of all places!
But the people here never let on that something took place. They continue to rebuild and persevere. They are warm, gracious and courteous.
My last full day on the island was spent on tour. I saw Phi Phi Lei, where they filmed “The Beach” (so now I guess I’ll have to watch it). I was impressed with the white, soft sand on the beaches in this area, like none other I’d ever seen before.
The boat circled to the back side and we got our first snorkel of the day. There were so many fish and wonderfully colored clams. The coral was great as well. It was the first time I’d swam off the back of a boat with no land to go to. I think a few people were scared to get in the water. I don’t think the water was deeper than 20 feet, though.
On to Phi Phi Don and a chance to see and feed wild monkeys. After this we ate on Phi Phi Island and had time for shopping or whatever. I wanted to see the other beach, not aware of the devastation. (Phi Phi is shaped like a butterfly. It’s basically 2 islands connected in the middle by a beach that is maybe 100 yards at it’s narrowest point.)
The ground looked like it had been upturned; the beach area was wiped out. It was completely littered with broken glass, tiles and plates; shattered wood; there were a few foundations and that was it, holes where a toilet once stood. There were only battered trees left, and the amazing thing about them was at some 40 feet in height, many were missing their leaves on top. It will probably take them years to recover that beach. There were a lot of what looked like American college kids helping rebuild.
I walked up to the beach, where there were very few others. It felt so cold, so devastated. I passed by a collection of hotel shampoo bottles, a shoe, a few slides scattered here and there. A broken boat sat on the sand. And everywhere- glass shards, rebar, wood and tiles. I was speechless, and late getting back to the boat that was ready to take us to a small island for more snorkling.
This island was surrounded by wonderful coral. But on the way there, and going back to Phuket, I saw all sorts of things floating in the water. Due to the speed of our boat I didn’t know what they were. I couldn’t help but wonder if they were from the tsunami. I wondered about the thousands of missing people and where they might be. And each time I snorkeled I wondered if I wouldn’t come across a body. But I never did.
The small island was wonderful, again the white, soft sand. I saw tons of fish and coral the likes of which I’ve never seen as far as size, quantity and beauty. I longed to see squid or turtles or octopus or something. But all I saw were the many fish. At one place a large school were feeding on the coral and it sounded like thousands of little kisses. I marveled at the little pink fish, who, in guarding its territory, took runs at me and at one point attacked my fins.I could have spent all day here and wasn't too happy to leave. But it was good to go back and have Zonya to spend my last night on the island with. We had dinner, pizza again for me (it was some of the best pizza I’ve ever had!). We took photos of the staff and got their names so we could keep in touch. I plan on writing a nice letter. Leaving the Capri almost made me cry. I started as usual, with a breakfast. Then back to Audy’s one last time for a swim in the ocean and a chance to thank the elements and spirits for such a grand time there. (Audy’s is the beach place I hung out each day getting massages, reading, enjoying iced fruit drinks and having lunch.)
But when I brought my key to Ya, she asked me what was wrong. I said I have to go home. She said, “No, you stay!” I asked if she could get me a job. “Yes and you stay with me,” she said. I said that I’d see her next year and she shot back, “No! Tomorrow!”
I paid my bill, which at under $200 for a week of rooms and dinner, was quite impressive. Then, as I was about to get into the van, I was handed a bouquet of orchids. I hugged Ya and had to choke back tears and force a smile so she wouldn’t see me getting upset. I’ve come to consider my hosts at Capri new found friends. I hope they are still there when next I visit.
This time on Thai Air, I sat in coach. The plane was only 1/3 full. I spoke to the pilots in hopes they’d let me sit up front with them, but it was not allowed. I know in some place I would be able to.
So I’m now back in Bangkok and the news is full of tomorrow’s start of Songkran, the Thai New Year. I don’t feel too bad about missing out. The gist of the celebration is spraying water on people, and since I hate getting wet...
I actually saw some kids near my hotel during my walk tonight showering passing cars. So I’m here to kick off the event and I’m fine with that. I did get to bathe a Buddha with fragrant water in the hotel lobby, a ritual done for the new year and for good luck.
Once back at BKK I found a tour desk who put me in a near-by hotel. I had to do this since my flight back to Japan and then the states left at 0700. I’d only be in the hotel 12 hours. I’m anxious to get back home and hopefull to be doing so in first class!
Flying in economy isn’t too bad when there’s no one in the seat next to you and the flight is NRT SFO and not some longer flight, like Sydney. Actually, it’s probably a good thing to do from time to time so see what’s it’s like for passengers on an international flight.
I’m a day behind schedule. I got up at 0415 to get to the airport for the 0700 flight to Narita, Japan to learn the flight canceled due to a mechanical problem. I had the fortune of running into Bill, an LAX ramp guy who was stuck as well. We shared a cab and found a cheap hotel. I’d be spending another day in Bangkok!
I saw it as an adventure. I got a day pass on the sky train and when after lunch at 0900 Bill was ready to go back to the hotel I set out to see sights.
Mostly because I was so hot and my maroon shirt was darkened by sweat, I rode to the last station. Here I found a large store, much like a Walmart. I enjoyed looking around at the wares and the food and even tried on some pants.On the way to this stop, I’d spied a few stops of interest and I took them in on the way back. At some I only took photos and then got on another train. At others I went down to the street level to explore. I enjoyed watching the locals celebrate their new year, Songkran, with water. I was fearful of getting doused myself and kept my eyes peeled.
Finally finding an Internet place open (most were closed for new year) I went in and spent an hour on line, checking a few important messages, writing a few and listing myself for the next day’s flight home. By doing so I avoided a rather heavy rain that lasted about 20 minutes. I was lucky that of the 3 rainfalls I saw, I never got hit by them.
Switching lines, I again rode to the last train stop, which was on the river’s edge. I hung out here for a bit, watching the water roll by and enjoying the breeze as I sat in the shade just above the dock. Others were there napping or doing the same as me.
By this time I stared to feel a little hungry. I went back to the shopping area near my first hotel, off Silom. Here the water fights were well under way. Small pick ups were full of people in the back, along with a large pot of water. Cups, pots and water guns would be filled up and people on the street drenched. In turn they would barrage the truck people in like fashion, as well as plastering the vehicle with talc covered hands. And when no vehicle was near, the faces of fellow revelers were made white with the wet messy stuff.
I managed to avoid any water while I did some street shopping and eventually found a Chinese place for a couple of dim sum dishes that made for a light lunch.
Afterwards I crossed the soi (an alley-like street) and treated myself to a thorough foot massage. It was thorough in that I also got my thighs, arms, head, back and shoulders worked on. I think the guy working on me was gay and I think he liked me. But it was a good massage.
When I walked out I again took some photos of revelers. But this time I got caught. A young guy grabbed my hand and dragged me over to the others. I protested, half in jest, as they prepared to initiate me into their culture full-on. The ones who used cold water, while at first a bit shocking, were my favorites. It sure helped beat the heat!
I waved and smiled and shouted back, “Happy New Year!” as I went on my way, clothes sticking to me from water. And at first I did avoid further incidents involving water. But is seems once one is wet one becomes open prey. Water guns were the main weapon of choice and a few graced my face, quite well, with wet talc.
As I stood in the train I made a small puddle and enjoyed its aircon on my mostly wet body. Then a girl from Poland came on board and I talked her up a bit.
We got off at Victory Monument, got a drink together, spoke some more and then took some photos. She had to get back for a tour so we exchanged e mail addresses and said goodbye.
Back at our hotel, Bill had already eaten dinner, although we mentioned doing so together. He had gotten drenched as well and wanted to relax after a shower. So I would eat on my own. I found one of those big Walmart-type stores and ate in the food court, ordering a fresh spring roll and tom yun soup. It was too much food so I took a photo of it, since it only cost me $2. I didn’t like the roll and after about ½ I gave up on it. The soup here was tasty, but too spicy and the meat they used was sub-par.
Bill and I shared a cab back to BKK. This time we would be leaving Bangkok on a 747-400. He sat in business class downstairs, and I went up, a first for me to fly up there as a passenger. I went into the cockpit so say hello and found them deep in the throws of a mechanical delemma. Fearing another canceled flight, I hung out in there for a while. The problem was one of 3 computers they use was not working. Compounded with the center auto pilot not working, they wanted to make sure it was OK to fly in this state. (Planes have multiple back up systems so typically, even if one or two go down, there is still another back up. But there are times when a combination of things makes it unsafe for flight. This combination would prove to be fine and we were soon pushing back.)
I didn’t see him once I got into the Narita airport. Then, when I was handed a ticket for seat 54A, my spirit sank. I didn’t want to sit in economy, I’m so spoiled! But after realizing it was a window seat I sucked it up and thought the experience would be good.
I left April 1 and am getting home April 14.; 2 weeks gone. I’ve never been gone so long on a trip like this, certainly not over seas. I’m over budget but so happy for the experience. I know I’ve got 2 cats who will be happy to see me. But I can tell them about the beautiful people, the wonderful sights, the sorrow of the tsunami devastation, the hellish heat, the uplifting spirit and will of the Thai people, and the sound of the waves crashing on the soft sand while I got my daily Thai massages on the beach!
I want to be sure to tell people, if they are thinking of going but are concerned about doing so after the tsunami, don’t fear. Things are fine. They desperately need tourism on Phuket to survive. Go and enjoy this wonderful land, called the land of smiles for a good reason. Go now, while it’s still slow. I would imagine that before the tsunami, it is a crowded place. But now it’s calm, relaxing and spritual, if that’s what you want, or wild, active and lively if that does it for you. Phuket has what you need and you have what they need.
View photos here: http://picturecenter.kodak.com/share?invite=nErrJZmj88kQEzn7h7Wo
My Trip to Thailand April 1-14 by Scott G. Gibson
As I walked into the ballroom the first thing I noticed was the plinky muzak playing to the other hotel guests. One song would be a country tune with slide guitar, the next 2 would be the cheesiest ‘70s ballads, made even more so by the piano plinking in where the words should be.
When I learned my Bangkok hotel, the Mandarin, included breakfast with my stay, I pictured a simple affair, perhaps like some of my hotel stays in Europe or America: some breads, cereals, maybe some eggs; and fruit for sure. And it was fair to think so since I was only paying about $23 a night for the room.
But this affair was more grand. Fried rice with pork, Thai noodles, scrambled eggs, hot dogs in an odd catsup sauce, bacon, fruit, bread, cereal as suspected, french toast, pancakes and a couple of local dishes. They were all stretched out down the center of the room. Tables of all sizes surrounded the feast, about half of them occupied and half of those only half so!
After I ate and suffered through the music I returned to my room to form an action plan. I’d arrived in Thailand about midnight and probably fell asleep near 0200. So I’d not spent any time doing so before now. With only 2 whole days allocated to this stay, I thought I’d spend most of day one seeing the historical sights. Those being some distance and on the river, I thought I’d walked down one of the shopping roads near by, to the river, where I could take a boat to the Grand Palace area of the city. This would be a 2 mile or so walk.
But obviously, my body wasn’t quite ready. It was 0800 and I’d been up just over 2 hours, but before going out I had to take a nap! Guess I wasn’t as ready to get up as I had thought.
When I got outside I didn’t think the heat was all that bad. It took a few blocks of walking before I realized the humidity was more than I first realized. At least the sun hid behind the layer of haze and clouds.
Most of the shops seemed closed as I headed for the river. I wans’t sure if it was the fact that it was a Sunday or maybe they didn’t open until a little later in the day. There were people out, but not many.
The whole way tuk tuk drivers would constantly stop me to ask if I wanted a ride. Like it was wrong to be walking. And maybe in this heat it was. I soon learned my new catch phrase in Thailand was to be “No tuk tuk!” It would be accompanied by a hand gesture that looked like a wave-off, just in case they needed a visual as well.
I got to the river, a dirty looking body of water in which I’d never submerge in, full of long boats and cruise boats. I started talking to an attractive English couple. Soon an Australian couple joined us and we decided to go in on hiring a long boat to take us up river as opposed to the public transport boats, which would take much longer (even though I was in no hurry).
The long boat was awesome, powered by a huge, loud engine on a ‘pole’ that looked like it had been pulled from a semi truck.
The long boat was fast and in no time we were climbing out of it near the Grand Palace. Our little group split up. I was a little disappointed since I was alone. I thought it would be nice to hang out with them for a while. But we all had different agendas.
When I got to the palace, the sun started to come out a little and I felt the full force of Thailand’s hot season. I started to think of “it’s so hot..” jokes, like my nuts were roasting, that my diamond ear ring was reverting back to char-coal, that the reason Thais ate such hot food was that it was still cooler than the climate. I think I saw Satan fanning himself in a pub. When a hotel offers a sauna, it’s just a bench outside. It’s so hot I saw a squirrel in the park fanning his nuts.
I found shade to walk in or stand in when I stopped to look at things. Several times I had to stop to sit in the shade for a bit. I spent more time sitting here than any other place I’ve visited. When I finally got to the coin and artifacts museum, a place I would not normally care to visit but did now since it was indoors, I think it was just in time. When I got inside and felt the cool air, I realized my heart rate was elevated, I was short on breath and sweating profusely. I drank some water and stopped at each air vent to allow the air to blow up my shirt and I’d stoop down so the crotch-level vent could air my face out. I took my time and was reluctant to leave.
Despite the heat I was quite impressed with the Thai temple architecture and the amount of detail and work put into them. The exteriors were covered with tile and mirrors. The statues, some fearsome, others quaint – being half chicken and half human- were grand. I would say that of all the holy places I’ve ever visited, I was most impressed with this one.
One highlight of my first day in Bangkok was finding a nice little pub across from Wat Po and sitting just off the side walk, under a fan, and drinking a couple of beers. Ahh, the good life!
Then into Wat Po I did go, in search of a foot massage, which by this point was badly needed. The cost was 300 Baht for an hour, or about $8. What a treat! I sat next to a nice young German dude who’d never had a foot massage. He was only there waiting for his girl who was getting a massage and decided to give the foot massage a try. We spoke some, about our home countries, our stay in Bangkok and the heat.
Shortly after my treat it began to rain so I found a shelter and waited it out for almost 30 minutes. I hadn’t eaten since breakfast, it was now nearly 1800. I decided to head for T. Restaurant, a place my friend, Denny, had recommended. Plus he knew a girl who worked there. So I found a tuk tuk driver and negotiated a price I was happy with and was off on my next adventure and my first ride in a tuk tuk (a 3-wheeled motor cart, loud, open aired, but quick).
Turns out I was a better navigator than the driver was. We hit a lot of traffic crossing town and when we finally stopped he said I was there. But when I asked where the place was, showing him the card Denny gave me, he pointed to the ground at his feet. Not good enough, I told him. After another look at the card we turned around and went to the opposite end of the long street. He said that was the place, but after consulting the map it couldn’t have been. Back up that street we went, a third time, past where we’d first stopped, and then left at the light. He pointed just ahead of us to where he said the place was but I looked at the card again and told him it wasn’t possible. We should have gone right, not left. And I was too tired to walk.
So another 15 minutes later he stops, I payed him and found my way through the clean glass doors of a nice, modern Chinese seafood restaurant.
I met Patti, who helped me order a large beer and pick a few selections from the menu. Patti, or Paraporn, was a flight attendant based in Bangkok before they closed down the base shortly after 9-11. Her father owned the place and ran the older, original restaurant. She ran this new one and missed her old job, saying this bored her, having to be here 7 days a week.
Patti sat and spoke for a while, having to take a few phone calls and see to other guests from time to time. She showed me a few places to check out for my next day, showed me a night market to hit, and was a gracious host.At one point at dinner I was talking to Patti and asking her about some of the details in her restaurant. I turned to glance out the window and there in the street, looking right at me, was an elephant! I couldn’t believe it. She told me they come out at night to give tourists rides. Then a woman come to the window holding a bag of fruit I didn’t quite recognize and motioned to me that she wanted to sell it to me. I shook my head and asked Patti what it was that she was selling. Turns out it was food for people to feed the elephants.
The food was good and I would recommend the place, but none of what I had was Thai food. Patti gave me a 10% discount making my meal come to about $13. The same meal in the US would easily have been $30. Patti helped me get a cab, telling the driver I wanted to go to the night market in Thai, but as we drove away, it turns out the driver spoke English fairly well.
I thought it interesting that when people meet me, they assume I speak English as opposed to maybe Russian or German. Some times when I’m accosted in the street I ignore them as if I don’t understand the English they are speaking to me. I just say nothing, looking off to another direction. I did this a lot at the night market.
The night market was enjoyable, however. I walked up and down the narrow halls lined with small stalls. Some shops had rented 2 or 3 and were large and nice, others were merely 3 walls and the merchandise they were selling. I enjoyed that the vendors weren’t nearly as pushy as the ones in china or Korea, but at the same time, these vendors didn’t barter as much. Many let me walk away without them pursuing me for a lower price and a sale. A pair of pants offered at 200B only went as low as 150B. (And it 38 Baht to the dollar, that was still cheap!)I only bought a pair of pants and 3 Thai silk shirts. They cost about $10 each.
At this point I was purely exhausted, it was now almost 2200. I bought some beer, a cake and a snack to take back to my room. I tried to find a metered cab to take me back. I’d had enough of tuk tuks, with their noise and slightly higher prices, which have to be bartered for. My next adventure ensued.
First I had to pass a few tuk tuks. No, no, no, I told them. The first cab spoke no English and to show him on my map where I wanted to go was futile, as he would not look at it. It was like he couldn’t read or something. I gave up on him and moved to the next cab.
This one said he would take me the 2 miles to my hotel for 100B. But my ride there from T. Restaurant was only 50B and that was further. I tried to talk him down but was not successful. So who’s next?
Well, the next guy said the same thing. The one after that refused to take me, not far enough or great enough of a fare. Finally, I found a cabbie that knew where the hotel was and would use the meter.
I got to my room, which was nice and cool. The rains had helped cool things down but I was still doing a lot of sweating. I listened to one of the CDs I’d bought at the night market, having trouble staying up for half of it, and slept well that night.
I awoke the next day to the sound of thunder. A few moments later I heard another faint rumble. Thunder here is different from most I’ve ever heard. It was a faint little rumble, almost like it didn’t really want to disturb anyone, but had a job to do nonetheless. A look out the widow showed a torrential downpour. But at least it cooled things down.
After another plinky music-filled breakfast I set out for a day of exploring the shopping areas (the rain didn’t last too long). It was cool and breezy, at first. I went down Silom Rd. as I had the day before, but this time it was bustling, as I’d expected it to be the previous day.
It wasn’t long before I boarded the sky train and was off to Siam. Siam was an impressive collection of shops, stores and restaurants, including the Hard Rock Bangkok. I didn’t find anything of interest and after a while I was on the move again for Sukhumvit Rd. where I did more shopping and sight seeing.
By now my feet were beginning to kill me once more. My pace slowed and my stomach rumbled for authentic Thai food. After a while I wandered into the Ambassador Hotel and got a reference for a good Thai place. Armed with directions and part of the name spoken in a thick accent, I found my way to Cabbages and Condoms.
Yes, I did hesitate for a moment at the name. But I eventually found a classy place, with a lush, green beer garden, nicely appointed dinning room, and well groomed men and women to wait on me. And sure enough, as indicated in its name, photos, posters, pictures and samples of condoms hung on the walls. They even give condoms instead of mints at the end of the meal.
The food was fantastic and service impeccable. The soup was exquisite (tom yun kung), with shrimp and all sorts of mushrooms, some gown on the premises. And a portion of the revenue goes for social causes, part of which is sex education.
I splurged on dessert of fried bananas with honey. I was completely stuffed. Time for a cab back, then a nap. I was still up for seeing Silom at night, with its famous sex clubs. And what a show that was! Not only were they all naked and erect, but after a Thai dance demo, live sex on stage. Yowza, I’m in Bangkok now!
The girls continued to come over to try to entice me to anti up 700B to take one back to my hotel. But there was no way I’d ever do that! I politely refused, smiled, and eventually had enough sleaze and made my way back to bed.
I wasn’t in such a good mood when I got to Phuket. Well, it wasn’t so much that , I guess, but I started to think, maybe I’ll go ahead and leave on the 10th instead of the 13th as originally planned.
My planning got me to the airport a bit too early. The driver dropped me off and when I entered the antiquated terminal, I felt lost. There were no clear signs indicating what I needed to do. I put all 3 bags I had with me on an x-ray – turns out it was only for bags that would be checked. Then I found a Thai Airlines desk and was informed that I was in the international terminal when I needed to be in domestic. I spent the next 2 hours continually cussing at my limo driver. I told him Thai Air, Phuket.
A bus took me to the correct terminal. Then I was told my flight was sold out, but come back at 1340. That was over an hour away. I wondered why the lady I spoke to on the phone hadn’t mentioned the status of this flight to me. I could have come to the airport later, or earlier, according to the load status of other flights.
So with my extra time I listed for my flight back to Bangkok, but only after standing in the wrong line for 30 minutes. Then I found a quiet lounge and read a magazine while gazing out at the runways.
Eventually, I was seated in 24B, the last row of first class on a 2-class A300-600. I enjoyed experiencing the Thai ‘Royal Orchid’ service, pre-departure offered in real glass, not plastic, bows and courteous tones of voice from flawless, young Thai women in neat purple uniforms.
The service was fast, the flight was just over an hour. Yet we got a little snack, some sort of pastry with curried chicken, hot from the oven. Oh, and in the lavatory, real wash cloths to dry with instead of paper towels.
Again, I got a little upset when the airport taxis wanted to gouge me on a ride to my hotel on Surin Beach. After a very difficult call to my hotel, no one spoke English very well, I was told a van would get me in 30 minutes.
The hotel was nice, I was given a fruit drink while I checked in. The room was real nice, very Italian in decor, down to the photo over the bed from Napoli. It didn’t dawn on me before that this might be the case in a hotel named Capri Beach Resort.
I requested a room with an ocean view. I’d have that were it not for the trees. I thought about a room on the 3rd floor, mine was on the 1st (second in America) but the room was smaller there and I realized that being that high would mean a hotter room, since heat rises.
I got settled in and walked the short way to the beach, which lied just beyond a park area in front of the hotel. I got there just in time for sunset, but it disappeared behind the clouds that lie on the horizon and I never got to see it touch the Earth.
It wasn’t until my next day, sitting under 2 umbrellas, under a bunch of trees, in the shade, breeze blowing, waves crashing, after an hour-long Thai massage ($8) that I started feeling much better about being here. I decided I’d stay the extra 2 days.
I love the beach here, it’s peaceful and quiet, like I’d hoped it would be. There are all the comforts – a cabana boy brushes off the lounge and brings drinks. The restaurant is just a few yards away. There are a lot of Germans, which means, with few exceptions of god-like bodies, over-weight old men in speedos, and topless women, most of which were actually worth a stare. But the beach was mostly deserted, people still concerned about the state of things after the tsunami. But there was nothing to worry about here!
My hotel has wonderful pizza and Thai food, is close to some shops, where I can get cheap beer, liquor and snacks, and only has 18 rooms. I’m not sure how they go about calling it a beach resort. There is no pool or gym, only a bar and restaurant. There’s also an internet place so I wrote the world back home of my trip so far.
Life is good on the beach in Phuket!Zonya says I’ve become a local and she’s nearly right. She’s a friend of mine who also works at United who came to visit me in Phuket before going on to visit family in the Philippines.
After 5 days of doing the same thing, sitting in the same chair on the same beach at the same restaurant I should get to know things. At least I’m mixing it up with what I eat. But I’m getting familiar with the habits of some of the other beach regulars.
The beach gods, as I call them, a very fit and well built good looking couple who ride on their motor bike, eat (she gets something different each day but always drinks water – he always eats a pancake with honey but drinks something different) and then hit the lounges for sun. He always grabs a boogie board and plays in the surf. There’s the single man in his 50’s who sits near me, reads, spends some time in the water and then leaves just after noon.
I met a guy at my hotel, Lattuce, named after a winning horse. He’s from England, living in Australia with his wife and kids, and spends a lot of time traveling. He’s in Singapore and the Philippines a lot working with a company trying to save the Earth’s O-zone. He sits at the hotel bar each evening drinking scotch and smoking. But he’s nice.
One night an attractive well built American looking guy walked into the restaurant area with an attractive blond girl who didn’t look so American. I was eating and said hello as they neared my table. She asked if I was the owner. “No, just a guest,” I told her. Before long the guy walked out and she sat down and ordered something from the menu. I noticed she had a hotel key. I started to talk to her. Now finished with my meal, she asked me to join her. Her name was Fen and she was from the Netherlands. She’d been in Thailand for a while and mentioned that her boyfriend would meet her here in Phuket on May 5. She’d met Bo, the cute guy, a few weeks ago in Chaing Mai and they decided to come here together and share some expenses. But she made clear to me that she was not willing to share rooms to Bo’s dismay. He and another girl, Carley, were staying at the kick boxing place about 30 minutes away.
Bo had left to get her belongings and bring them back. She knew he was interested in her but she had made it clear her boyfriend was coming soon and she wasn’t interested in fooling around. I think she was half telling me this story to make it clear with me as well. I said it was nice of him to spend an hour and a half getting her belongings for her. Too nice, she said. “People in Amsterdam wouldn’t do that, “ she said.
When Bo showed up I felt like I already knew him. He lives in California, has a pilot’s license and learned to kick box here and has come back to hang out with some old friends and do some boxing with them.
I couldn’t help but feel Bo was jealous of me, sort of like I was moving in on his girl as it were. He goes off to be the hero, comes back and finds me having dinner with her. His glares were obvious but he hid them as best he could. Still, he was quite nice and soon warmed up to me. He stayed a while chatting with us, after he left we stayed another hour or so.
The next day, while getting my daily massage on the beach, my good friend, Zonya showed up. I was so happy to see her. Mostly because I’d told so many people she may come for a few days. I wanted to be able to say that she had.
Saturday night we got tickets to the Fantasea Show in Kamala Beach, the next beach south from us. With live elephants, ox, goat and chickens, all sorts of Thai dancing and some magic, it was quite a spectacle!
I had so much fun with Zonya. She enjoyed the staff at the hotel and my relationship with them. The girls there are so precious and were quite flirtatious with me and I just ate it up. I’m also guilty of goading them on!
Friday night (and actually I was waiting around in the hops Fen would return froman evening in Patong) I was hanging out in the hotel bar. They let me bring down CDs to listen to and I also brought some photos to share so we could get to know one another better. We all spoke while they worked and joked and I watched and critiqued a pizza being made. Look told me I’d have to make my pizza the next day!
Noticing how I take the orchids from my drinks up to my room, the girl who cleans it gave me a vase with orchids to take to my room. One day I asked for a second glass of orange juice at breakfast and now they give me a large glass shaped like a lady without asking. It’s the little touches that really get me.
Friday, I had gone to Patong and realized then that I was staying in the best hotel at the best beach for me. In Patong, the hotels aren’t on the beach, but several blocks away. It’s got tons of shops with aggressive hawkers, tons of bars and loud music, but no one was in them and they all wanted me! The beach wasn’t as nice, it’s more populated, more loud, people playing games and shouting, boats and yachts in the water off shore.
Yes, I’m very fortunate that I picked such a wonderful beach and a great hotel to stay in . If I come back, I’ll definitely stay here again.
Driving to Patong was an experience. I finally got to see the destruction of the tsunami. Vast areas of beach property on both sides of the road were affected. Except for some trees, it was all vacant, and even they had damage. Foundations were all that were left at a few places. Once I even saw that a swimming pool was all that was left of a hotel. Parts of the road had even washed away and it reminded me of how tornados often strip off the top surface of roads. In Patong, there were still quite a few places boarded up, including the McDonalds of all places!
But the people here never let on that something took place. They continue to rebuild and persevere. They are warm, gracious and courteous.
My last full day on the island was spent on tour. I saw Phi Phi Lei, where they filmed “The Beach” (so now I guess I’ll have to watch it). I was impressed with the white, soft sand on the beaches in this area, like none other I’d ever seen before.
The boat circled to the back side and we got our first snorkel of the day. There were so many fish and wonderfully colored clams. The coral was great as well. It was the first time I’d swam off the back of a boat with no land to go to. I think a few people were scared to get in the water. I don’t think the water was deeper than 20 feet, though.
On to Phi Phi Don and a chance to see and feed wild monkeys. After this we ate on Phi Phi Island and had time for shopping or whatever. I wanted to see the other beach, not aware of the devastation. (Phi Phi is shaped like a butterfly. It’s basically 2 islands connected in the middle by a beach that is maybe 100 yards at it’s narrowest point.)
The ground looked like it had been upturned; the beach area was wiped out. It was completely littered with broken glass, tiles and plates; shattered wood; there were a few foundations and that was it, holes where a toilet once stood. There were only battered trees left, and the amazing thing about them was at some 40 feet in height, many were missing their leaves on top. It will probably take them years to recover that beach. There were a lot of what looked like American college kids helping rebuild.
I walked up to the beach, where there were very few others. It felt so cold, so devastated. I passed by a collection of hotel shampoo bottles, a shoe, a few slides scattered here and there. A broken boat sat on the sand. And everywhere- glass shards, rebar, wood and tiles. I was speechless, and late getting back to the boat that was ready to take us to a small island for more snorkling.
This island was surrounded by wonderful coral. But on the way there, and going back to Phuket, I saw all sorts of things floating in the water. Due to the speed of our boat I didn’t know what they were. I couldn’t help but wonder if they were from the tsunami. I wondered about the thousands of missing people and where they might be. And each time I snorkeled I wondered if I wouldn’t come across a body. But I never did.
The small island was wonderful, again the white, soft sand. I saw tons of fish and coral the likes of which I’ve never seen as far as size, quantity and beauty. I longed to see squid or turtles or octopus or something. But all I saw were the many fish. At one place a large school were feeding on the coral and it sounded like thousands of little kisses. I marveled at the little pink fish, who, in guarding its territory, took runs at me and at one point attacked my fins.I could have spent all day here and wasn't too happy to leave. But it was good to go back and have Zonya to spend my last night on the island with. We had dinner, pizza again for me (it was some of the best pizza I’ve ever had!). We took photos of the staff and got their names so we could keep in touch. I plan on writing a nice letter. Leaving the Capri almost made me cry. I started as usual, with a breakfast. Then back to Audy’s one last time for a swim in the ocean and a chance to thank the elements and spirits for such a grand time there. (Audy’s is the beach place I hung out each day getting massages, reading, enjoying iced fruit drinks and having lunch.)
But when I brought my key to Ya, she asked me what was wrong. I said I have to go home. She said, “No, you stay!” I asked if she could get me a job. “Yes and you stay with me,” she said. I said that I’d see her next year and she shot back, “No! Tomorrow!”
I paid my bill, which at under $200 for a week of rooms and dinner, was quite impressive. Then, as I was about to get into the van, I was handed a bouquet of orchids. I hugged Ya and had to choke back tears and force a smile so she wouldn’t see me getting upset. I’ve come to consider my hosts at Capri new found friends. I hope they are still there when next I visit.
This time on Thai Air, I sat in coach. The plane was only 1/3 full. I spoke to the pilots in hopes they’d let me sit up front with them, but it was not allowed. I know in some place I would be able to.
So I’m now back in Bangkok and the news is full of tomorrow’s start of Songkran, the Thai New Year. I don’t feel too bad about missing out. The gist of the celebration is spraying water on people, and since I hate getting wet...
I actually saw some kids near my hotel during my walk tonight showering passing cars. So I’m here to kick off the event and I’m fine with that. I did get to bathe a Buddha with fragrant water in the hotel lobby, a ritual done for the new year and for good luck.
Once back at BKK I found a tour desk who put me in a near-by hotel. I had to do this since my flight back to Japan and then the states left at 0700. I’d only be in the hotel 12 hours. I’m anxious to get back home and hopefull to be doing so in first class!
Flying in economy isn’t too bad when there’s no one in the seat next to you and the flight is NRT SFO and not some longer flight, like Sydney. Actually, it’s probably a good thing to do from time to time so see what’s it’s like for passengers on an international flight.
I’m a day behind schedule. I got up at 0415 to get to the airport for the 0700 flight to Narita, Japan to learn the flight canceled due to a mechanical problem. I had the fortune of running into Bill, an LAX ramp guy who was stuck as well. We shared a cab and found a cheap hotel. I’d be spending another day in Bangkok!
I saw it as an adventure. I got a day pass on the sky train and when after lunch at 0900 Bill was ready to go back to the hotel I set out to see sights.
Mostly because I was so hot and my maroon shirt was darkened by sweat, I rode to the last station. Here I found a large store, much like a Walmart. I enjoyed looking around at the wares and the food and even tried on some pants.On the way to this stop, I’d spied a few stops of interest and I took them in on the way back. At some I only took photos and then got on another train. At others I went down to the street level to explore. I enjoyed watching the locals celebrate their new year, Songkran, with water. I was fearful of getting doused myself and kept my eyes peeled.
Finally finding an Internet place open (most were closed for new year) I went in and spent an hour on line, checking a few important messages, writing a few and listing myself for the next day’s flight home. By doing so I avoided a rather heavy rain that lasted about 20 minutes. I was lucky that of the 3 rainfalls I saw, I never got hit by them.
Switching lines, I again rode to the last train stop, which was on the river’s edge. I hung out here for a bit, watching the water roll by and enjoying the breeze as I sat in the shade just above the dock. Others were there napping or doing the same as me.
By this time I stared to feel a little hungry. I went back to the shopping area near my first hotel, off Silom. Here the water fights were well under way. Small pick ups were full of people in the back, along with a large pot of water. Cups, pots and water guns would be filled up and people on the street drenched. In turn they would barrage the truck people in like fashion, as well as plastering the vehicle with talc covered hands. And when no vehicle was near, the faces of fellow revelers were made white with the wet messy stuff.
I managed to avoid any water while I did some street shopping and eventually found a Chinese place for a couple of dim sum dishes that made for a light lunch.
Afterwards I crossed the soi (an alley-like street) and treated myself to a thorough foot massage. It was thorough in that I also got my thighs, arms, head, back and shoulders worked on. I think the guy working on me was gay and I think he liked me. But it was a good massage.
When I walked out I again took some photos of revelers. But this time I got caught. A young guy grabbed my hand and dragged me over to the others. I protested, half in jest, as they prepared to initiate me into their culture full-on. The ones who used cold water, while at first a bit shocking, were my favorites. It sure helped beat the heat!
I waved and smiled and shouted back, “Happy New Year!” as I went on my way, clothes sticking to me from water. And at first I did avoid further incidents involving water. But is seems once one is wet one becomes open prey. Water guns were the main weapon of choice and a few graced my face, quite well, with wet talc.
As I stood in the train I made a small puddle and enjoyed its aircon on my mostly wet body. Then a girl from Poland came on board and I talked her up a bit.
We got off at Victory Monument, got a drink together, spoke some more and then took some photos. She had to get back for a tour so we exchanged e mail addresses and said goodbye.
Back at our hotel, Bill had already eaten dinner, although we mentioned doing so together. He had gotten drenched as well and wanted to relax after a shower. So I would eat on my own. I found one of those big Walmart-type stores and ate in the food court, ordering a fresh spring roll and tom yun soup. It was too much food so I took a photo of it, since it only cost me $2. I didn’t like the roll and after about ½ I gave up on it. The soup here was tasty, but too spicy and the meat they used was sub-par.
Bill and I shared a cab back to BKK. This time we would be leaving Bangkok on a 747-400. He sat in business class downstairs, and I went up, a first for me to fly up there as a passenger. I went into the cockpit so say hello and found them deep in the throws of a mechanical delemma. Fearing another canceled flight, I hung out in there for a while. The problem was one of 3 computers they use was not working. Compounded with the center auto pilot not working, they wanted to make sure it was OK to fly in this state. (Planes have multiple back up systems so typically, even if one or two go down, there is still another back up. But there are times when a combination of things makes it unsafe for flight. This combination would prove to be fine and we were soon pushing back.)
I didn’t see him once I got into the Narita airport. Then, when I was handed a ticket for seat 54A, my spirit sank. I didn’t want to sit in economy, I’m so spoiled! But after realizing it was a window seat I sucked it up and thought the experience would be good.
I left April 1 and am getting home April 14.; 2 weeks gone. I’ve never been gone so long on a trip like this, certainly not over seas. I’m over budget but so happy for the experience. I know I’ve got 2 cats who will be happy to see me. But I can tell them about the beautiful people, the wonderful sights, the sorrow of the tsunami devastation, the hellish heat, the uplifting spirit and will of the Thai people, and the sound of the waves crashing on the soft sand while I got my daily Thai massages on the beach!
I want to be sure to tell people, if they are thinking of going but are concerned about doing so after the tsunami, don’t fear. Things are fine. They desperately need tourism on Phuket to survive. Go and enjoy this wonderful land, called the land of smiles for a good reason. Go now, while it’s still slow. I would imagine that before the tsunami, it is a crowded place. But now it’s calm, relaxing and spritual, if that’s what you want, or wild, active and lively if that does it for you. Phuket has what you need and you have what they need.
View photos here: http://picturecenter.kodak.com/share?invite=nErrJZmj88kQEzn7h7Wo
Labels: beach, cheap travel, fish, flying, monkey, new year, ocean, Phuket, Pi Pi Don, pizza, snorkeling, temples, Thailand, tidal wave, travel, tsunami, white sandy beach


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